After two weeks of glorious weather, it’s safe to say shorts season is once again officially upon us.
Rather than creating your own personal sauna, choosing the right suit can actually help you feel far cooler on a hot day. We’re here to give you the pointers you need – and to bring you our edit of ten of the best summer suits for every budget below…
1. Choose your fabric wisely
The first thing to note is that, while dress codes are breaking down ever more rapidly (now it’s rare that a man has separate suits for causal and work time), there should definitely be a distinction between what clothes you should wear for the summer and winter in your armoury. In order to survive summer in a suit, material choice is key. The suits you wear in the winter will tend to be cut from heavier fabric (thick wool, cashmere, tweed) and, if you’ve happened to impulse-buy a cheaper suit, the chances are it will be cut from a fabric that includes a high percentage of man-made fibre (polyester, nylon). Both of these lead to the sweat-stained same result as heavy natural fabrics. Plus, man-made fabrics are designed to insulate, not cool. Breathability and lightness are key. If you do go for wool, look out for a summer-weight fabric or one that’s been mixed with linen or silk as this will feel instantly lighter and allow your body heat to escape easier.
If possible, opt for a suit cut from cotton, linen or a cotton-linen-mix fabric – all of which will allow maximum breathability and allow air to circulate around your body. Seersucker in particular has enjoyed a revival recently and is well worth your attention during the summer. This puckered, striped cotton fabric (made famous by gentlemen in the southern US back in the 19th century) is perfectly adapted for the summer months as the texture of the fabric means it doesn’t cling to your body, so allows air in to cool you. Plus, the artfully wrinkled appearance means you don’t have to press it every two minutes to keep it looking fresh.
2. Look out for the lining
Another common mistake men tend to make in the hot weather is to deem a suit “summery” on the basis of its colour and not much else. Yes, these months are the ones where you will be able to get away with a sandy-beige or a slick olive-green suit in the office, but appearances can be deceiving. As with buying a car, make sure you also check under the hood before you buy.
Even if you’ve got the material right, a cotton or linen can be rendered warmer if fully lined – especially if that lining is also made from a non-breathable man-made fabric. Look instead for a half-lining (or “buggy lining”, as it is sometimes called), which adds lining to the sides and upper back of your jacket, or an altogether unlined blazer, which usually means lining only under the arms to prevent sweat patches. The way to tell this is simply to open your prospective jacket. If you can see exposed taping on the back you’ve got a warm-weather winner. Both of these options will allow more air through the fabric and keep you feeling cool – it’s just up to you to choose which is best depending on how hot you tend to get.
3. Think about the cut of your trousers
After seasons of skinny jeans and Sixties-style suit trimness, trousers are finally getting looser. This is something you need to embrace this summer, if not for the trend then for the added leg-temperature regulation. Only the bravest man (or most lenient workplace dress code) might be able to accommodate full-on bagginess, but many tailors and labels are incorporating a more relaxed thigh to their formal trousers this season, either through a looser carrot cut that tapers down to the ankle or by adding a pleat (or double pleat) to the waistband.
While you might think adding fabric to your trousers will crank up the heat, this added air space will again help you feel cooler in an area that will only store heat as you move around all day.
4. Turn it up
Sometimes, on the very hottest days, you look for extra coolness wherever you can get it. To that end, think about the hem of your trousers. While in the winter you might like a nice break on your trouser hem, in the summer some air circulating around your ankles can really help. Consider getting your tailor to add a turn-up to your trousers (not a full-on crop, but just an inch to expose some skin – or a light silk sock) to help you feel cooler if you’re on your feet all day. Make sure that your trousers are tapered right for this, though, as too-baggy trouser legs will simply make it look like you’re wearing a pair that’s been handed down from your (shorter) dad. Your tailor will be able to help you balance this right, so make sure to ask his or her advice. Breezy does it.
Here are a few of our favourite suits that will keep you feeling cool and looking cool all summer long.
TAGLIATORE COTTON MICRO HOUNDSTOOTH SUIT
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE WASHED MULBERRY SILK SUIT
